Death was not option

Death was not option
Death was not option but some have succumbed.
Drownings have mostly occurred before inflatable safety suits became the saviour of choice, and from people not wearing any floatation device. Sadly being held under too long does the trick, especially when it take too long for the “Rescue” to find you or the toomstoned board.
Inflatable suit wearers usually suffer a minute or so, and you are much easier to find on the surface. Some times hard to get to if your bombed by another wave, and then it’s time to put your training into practice.
“So even though bigger waves than ever are being ridden, it’s not as dangerous as it used to be” says Shane Dorian .

Shane: ”When I get caught inside in warm water it’s a brutal beating but I can usually paddle back out and surf normally. But when I surf in cold water and get beat down in a wetsuit, and have to fight to get to the surface in a wetsuit, it drains me to the point where I don’t want to surf anymore”.
http://stabmag.com/no-deaths-at-jaws-shane-dorian-albee-layer/#BFfjgAikSUZf6OEc.99

Death was not option

Shane adds “There were surfers out there who were not the best big wave surfers in the world way beyond their prime, who had extra poundage around their waists, who hadn’t seen the inside of a gym or a sauna in years. These fitness-challenged folk also charged, took poundings and came up for air with desperate looks on their faces”. Floatation devices are worth the money.

Death was not an option

Death was not option


James Taylor, (who’s a really good surfer). Recalls that he fell on the last really big wave of the evening one time and pulled his vest, got pinned to the bottom, blew his eardrum and then his leash broke. Absolute worse case scenario, he had no way of knowing which way was up or how to get there. He came up in between two waves and was swimming diagonally, totally lost, and after three waves in a row recalls “I have no idea how he kept finding the surface”. His unborn child will have super human strength, I think…and Death was not option.